York The Elder

Dr G and I are off to the fair city of York this arvo to celebrate three years of hasty marriage. I should have thought of this weeks ago but forgot amidst the deaf and snottiness… I was wondering – you guys had so many brilliant ideas when we went to New York – has anyone been to the old one? Gareth's all geeked up for the air museum and the rail museum, but what's in it for me? Mwahaha. Signs of old age and crotchety-ness:

  • We booked our train tickets in the Quiet Coach. Shush, you kids!
  • Gareth is bringing a thermos of tea coz we're too stingy to pay £1 for the pissweak on-board swill.
  • Although Gareth will say it's more about environmental reasons – all them nasty plastic cups.

If he shows up with a tartan rug we're doomed.

Torn Between Two Lovers

After nearly 4.5 years in Scotland I've finally exchanged my Australian drivers licence for a UK one. You're supposed to do this after 12 months of residency, but strangely I couldn't bear to part with it.

My Australian Capital Territory licence was a particularly shithouse shade of lemon yellow, looking like it was cobbled together by kindergarteners with a laminating machine. Splashed across the top was a stern warning: DON'T DRINK AND DRIVE. Every time Gareth saw it he'd sqwark, "DOWNT DRINKEN DROIVE!" in his really convincing Australian accent. Sometimes when intoxicated I'd gaze at my old Braddon address and postcode and get a wee bit misty-eyed.

Now I have this shiny new drab and dreary UK licence. For some reason they've turned the photo into black and white so my features are smudged and broody like a serial killer. There's a dorky sense of pride at finally having a proper photo ID with my Scottish address, but more pathetically, I feel bereft. The last little piece of Australia is gone from my wallet! Oz just seems further and further away lately, yet there are moments (like at a wedding last night as I bumbled through all the ceilidh dances) when Scotland feels as bewildering and foreign as that first day.

Ambition

There is a train conductor with a secret longing to be a Voiceover Guy. This my theory anyway. The man really has the golden tonsils. I'll be sitting there, seething into my book and loathing humanity; wishing I had the nerve to tell the guy two rows in front that if I can clearly hear the news that Roger Federer has defeated Inferior Player 6-3 6-3 6-0, then his personal radio is turned up too fucking loud. But then I'll hear the familiar BING BONG of the train announcement PA system thingy, and the Conductors voice will come through, soothing like melted chocolate. "Good evening Ladies and Gentleman… this is your conductor speaking." He'll just be apologising for the Inconvenience of the Short Delay or warning us that the Next Stop Is Glasgow Queen Street, but his tone commands attention. It's deep, rich and reassuring. It fills the carriages; rising and falling like an old ballad. While all the other conductors mumble, he sounds like he puts a lot of thought into it and practices into a hairbrush at night. He even does wee pauses for suspense. "The next stop is… [Ooh tell me, tell me!] Haymarket. I'd like to remind passengers to please… retain your tickets… [Why? Why?] as barrier checks… are now in operation." It's a lovely mild sort of Scots accent, not one of those incomprehensible ones or over the top like Mr Connery. It belongs in voiceovers, I tell you. I can just imagine him saying, "Hair care products. Three-for-two this week at Boots". Or, "Stay with us now on Channel Five; next up is the insightful new documentary… The Man Who Was Raised By Chickens". The conductor is a handsome bloke, 40-something; he'd look so dignified in a small booth with a microphone above him. The other day he sauntered through our carriage to inspect the tickets. This is where he really showcases his range. He managed to say something different to every single passenger as they half-heartedly waved their passes at him. Thank you. Much obliged. Thanks. Perfect. Merci. Ta. Beautiful. That's smashing. I never knew there were so many ways to acknowledge a valid ticket. Before he got to me, he had to announce the Next Stop. I don't understand how the system works, to be honest. Most trains have an automated voice that blasts through so abruptly that it feels like your sternum will shatter. But sometimes the conductors have to do it manually. Or maybe this guy chooses to do it that way. I watched him unlock the little hatch where the equipment resides. He cleared his throat, straightened his tie, rolled his shoulders twice and cracked his knuckles, as if he was about to walk on stage to play King Lear. Finally he cleared his throat and picked up the handset, "Ladies and Gentleman… [dramatic pause!] The next stop… is Edinburgh Waverley." I was dying to tell him how brilliant I thought he was, how his voice warmed my soul and if put to commerical use, it would also make me want to buy stuff. But I figured he'd just think one of the following – 1.  I was being overly polite. Like when people at work thank me for making such great coffees for their meetings, when I KNOW full well I make the most shit coffees in the world, or 2.  I was drunk. Like 75% of passengers on my train line tend to be. Then again, maybe he had always harboured this secret desire to be a voiceover guy, but didn't have to confidence to really believe he could be a voiceover guy, and took the train conductor job because at least he got to announce the stations. Maybe if someone said to him, "Have you ever thought of doing voiceover work?" his secret desires would feel validated and he'd go and sign up for Voiceover School or whatever you have to do. Or maybe he was just a dedicated train conductor who happened to have a nice voice. When he came by I silently held out my ticket. I was rewarded with a Marvellous.

The Magic Hoodies

I have this hoodie. It is navy blue, old and grotty. I bought it for ten pounds back in 2004. That was the Year of Voluntary Poverty, when Rhiannon and I worked seven days a week and ate Tesco Value beans to fund our travels.

I had never worn a hoodie before and at first I marvelled at its mid-season practicality. If I was walking to the bus stop and suddenly attacked by a Spring shower, I could just flip the hood and prevent my hair from exploding into its usual revolting orange cloud.

Later on that year we went to Russia and despite being summer it was bloody chilly so I had to get the hoodie out. While our fellow Contiki tourers were also backpacker types, they'd had the good sense to be accountants or computer programmers in London instead of administrative losers in Edinburgh, so they had posh, stylish jackets. Worse still, Rhiannon had accidentally brought the exact same hoodie as me.

We'd meant to get different jackets before the trip but we'd run out of time and dosh. So we felt like right dickheads sitting on that tour bus for three weeks, all matched up.

"Are youse two twins?" an Aussie girl shouted from the back seat, the first of twenty-five people to ask this question.

"NO WE ARE NOT," we said in unison. "It was an unfortunate purchasing coincidence!"

"How thick are these people?" Rhiannon hissed, "Twins, just because we have the same stupid jacket."

"Idiots."

twins.jpg

I think Rhiannon ceremoniously burned her hoodie after that trip, but since I am lazy and not half as stylish I clung on to mine. And on and on. It makes me look like a bum, about to shuffle off to place a bet on some greyhounds. But my commute involves so much walking and this is Scotland, there's hair-wrecking downpour lurking round every corner.

What sucks is Gareth has a hoodie too, and seems surgically attached to it. He was wearing one the fateful day we met, and he would have worn it down the aisle had it not been so hot in Vegas. But as previously reported, the good Doctor has nae hair, so a hoodie is handy when there's a sudden chill in the air.

He recently replaced a hood he'd had for about twenty years, and what do you know, it's navy fucking blue. If we go for a walk we have to argue over who gets to wear theirs, because I was scarred by Russia and refuse to walk around all Mrs and Mrs Hoodie. What's next, matching white trainers and bum bags? So it's a fierce battle between the Baldy Head and the Risk-Of -Frizz Ginger. I fantasise that one day we'll just wake up and simultaneously declare, "Let's stop dressing like middle aged students and go out and buy some proper jackets!". But it never happens.

Recently I was behooded and half-asleep on the train, heading home from work. A young lad got on, juggling an armful of books, a guitar, and a huge bunch of flowers. He was dressed in black and smiling, a sharp contrast to us dour corporate slaves. He reminded me of one of those guys at high school that chicks would obsess over, assuming he was Deep and Mysterious because he had long hair and a faraway expression.

He arranged his goods on the luggage rack then plopped down beside me. As the train pulled away he started scrawling funny squiggles on a piece of paper.

"I'm learning Arabic," he said after a few minutes, catching me looking.

I sat up straight, shocked. This was the first time a stranger had spoken to me on the train. Normally it's just grim silence, everyone absorbed in their iPods and Dan Browns.

"Nice!" I croaked.

"I'm really loving it." His voice was soft and dreamy, "It looks like art, don't you think?"

"Sure!" I decided to have a stab at conversation, since this was such a rare event. "You know, I remember when I did Japanese, I always liked drawing the squiggles more than I did learning how to say anything."

"Japanese! That is so cool!"

We started chatting about the two languages and it was such a hoot because he was so earnest and completely uncynical, his lust for life not yet destroyed by working in a call centre.

"I have this big bag of henna at home," he said suddenly, "Someday I'm going to invite round a whole bunch of naked girls and paint poems all over them in Arabic. Yeah. Love poems!"

"Oh… brilliant! This is my stop."

"It's mine too. That's cool."

As the doors opened he gestured for me to go first and said the magic words, "So you're a student too, then?"

A student! A student! Have you ever heard anything sweeter, a decade after you'd last set foot in a place of learning?

We parted company and I walked home in the warm glow of the mildly flattered. It was a good ten minutes before I figured why he'd thought I was a student. It wasn't my youthful complexion or quality banter. It was because I was dressed like a slob. That bloody hoodie!

"You wouldn't believe what happened to me and my hoodie today," I told Gareth later. "It's going in the bin."

"No!" Gareth yelped, "You can't put a hoodie in the bin! Wait til you hear what happened to me and my hoodie today!"

He had spent the day canoeing down the River Spey today with two pals. They got caught in a crazy current and hit a huge log. The canoe capsized. The other two were flung out but Gareth got trapped underneath! He almost died!

Well, he was certainly under there long enough to start thinking of the tragic headline, Fife Lad Drooned In The Spey. Luckily his mate swooped in … and hauled him out by his hoodie.

"You see, hoodies are magic," he declared, "They keep you looking youthful AND they save your life."

"Right on."

"I am never taking this off again!"

Midnight Express

The Edinburgh Festivals are quite a different experience now that I'm not living in the middle of Edinburgh. It used to be a short bus ride or walk home after an evening show. But these days if we miss the last train, it's an epic journey on the 1AM bus. It's an eclectic mix of screeching hens, football revellers and middle-aged Girls Night Out-ers, with the odd posh couple hiding beneath the wife's pashmina as they wonder whose idea it was to leave the car at home. The air is thick with beer breath and nobody seems to know each other, but drunkeness unites. It's all belching, farts and bellowed banter. LADY 1:  Can you stop the bus please, driver! This lady is gonnae be sick! LADY 2:  Dinnae worry, hen! I'll be sick in ma handbag. LADY 1:  Dinnae worry, driver! She's gonnae be sick in her handbag! LADY 2:  [BLUUURRK] LADY 1:  Lucky you had that handbag because I wouldnae be cleaning up your sick. I'll clean up piss, but I hate cleaning up sick. BLOKE:  Oh that's good coz I'm totally burstin'. When we finally got off the bus we had to jump right over the stairs and onto the footpath, because some lady had spewed all over them.

The System

There were three girls on the train trying to establish who among them had the shittiest job. Was it the sales assistant, the coffee shop girl or the Pizza Hut chick? While they were all equally mistreated by customers and The Management, Pizza Hut Chick won because she had to come home stinking of cheese and tomato.

GIRL #1:  Anyway. Enough about work. Who’s coming to your 18th party?

GIRL #2:  Dunno yet.

GIRL #3:  Are you inviting Kelly?

G2:  No WAY. She’s a bitch. She said I didn’t get into St Andrews [University] because I wasn’t middle class!

G1:  That cow!

G3:  Middle class? What you mean by that?

G2:  You know, middle class.

G3:  No I don’t know.

G2:  Well you know, everyone has a class. There’s upper class, and below that is middle class, and below that is… what do you call the other one?

G1:  Working class.

G3:  Oh right. So how do you know which one you are?

G2:  It depends on what your dad does. If he’s something like a labourer or taxi driver then you’re working class.

G3:  Well. Then I’m working class.

G1:  Me too! And proud of it!

G3:  What are you if your Dad’s a doctor?

G1:  Depends what sort of doctor. There’s different classes of medical professional.

G2:  Yeah, like a brain surgeon would be upper class but a GP would be sorta… middle-upper.

The Road to Red Square

image from www.dietgirl.org

On 19 June we were on the bus for a good seven hours, making our way from Novgorod to Moscow. When I wasn't scoffing Finnish chocolate I was pressed up against the window trying to take photos of fast-moving objects.

It was an unforgettable journey after four days in the relative glamour and beauty of St Petersburg. There were miles of run-down houses, crumbling roadside stalls selling beachtowels and stuffed toys, endless silvery lakes, a truck stop zoo complete with drugged hyenas, and the ever-present old ladies in headscarves glaring at our obnoxious white tour bus.

The Way Young Lovers Do

Public transport is a cruel and evil form of mobile hell, in which one is forced to be surrounded by people at the very time of day when one least wants to be surrounded by people.

Yesterday the girl with the Justin Timberlake ringtone was in the midst of a lover’s quarrel with someone perhaps attempting contact whilst buried under an avalanche, such was the quality of the phone’s reception:

“Nooo. Wha? … I’m not arguing… Wha? No fuck youuu… Wha? … Wha? … I’m on the bus… Wha? … the BUS!”

The guy beside me was searching for his ears beneath the long greasy ropes of his hair. Once found, he jammed his earphones in and cranked up the volume to the maximum.

My blood began to simmer. When listening to music in public, it’s not difficult to check the volume before you put your earphones in to see if it’s audible to those around you. If so, you can decrease the volume accordingly. Or if you’re a jerky jerkface, you can just turn it up even louder to ensure the whole bus enjoys your bellowing Radio One DJ or obscure Scandinavian metal band.

“Wha? I’ll see you at home… HOOOME. Wha? Go to hell.”

I stood up and smacked the STOP bell. To hell with this bewheeled torture chamber! I’d paid £33 a month for unlimited travel on Lothian Buses. If this bus was so determined to shit me, I would simply get on a different one!

After ten minutes sulking in the afternoon drizzle, another bus came by. I was greeted by the unmistakable stench of the Great Unwashed. But I was willing to tolerate that for a few moments of silence. I sat back and noticed how this particular route was always full of elderly men with huge ears, curved and creviced like ashtrays.

I was dozing off when a young couple came clattering up the aisle, they couldn’t have been more than 14. They plonked down across from me and dropped their shopping bags. He carefully pushed back the hood of her regulation fur-trimmed parka and they commenced a furious snog session.

When you’re the one in the midst of a kiss, it sounds like heaven. Sweet or soft or sexy; the memory of it can keep you floating for days. But when you’re not involved, a kiss is one of the most irritating noises in the world. The sound of someone else’s smacking lips and clonking teeth makes the stomach scream in protest. I pulled my beanie down harder over my ears as he excavated traces of Irn-Bru and chip crumbs from her gums.

After ten minutes they stopped, and the boy spoke in nasal tones.

“Scratch my back would ya babe?”

“Wha?”

“I’m itchy. Below my shoulder. Lower. Aww yeah, that’s it.”

“Yeah?”

“Bit more to the left. Aww yeah. You’re the best babe.”

The slurping resumed with renewed vigour for a good four stops, until the girl’s mobile rang. You could almost hear their merged saliva stretch out and snap like mozzarella on a pizza as they reluctantly parted lips.

“Hello? Who?… Eh? … What you want? … I’m on the bus… THE BUS… Noo, I’m on my own… I’m on my ooown…. Fine.”

Beep.

Slurp slurp.

Breathless recap.

“So that was Douglas. Me phone rang and I said like Hello? and he’s like It’s Douglas and I’m like Who? and he says Douglas and I’m like Eh? What you want? and he’s like Where are you? and I’m like I’m on the bus and he’s like Where? THE BUS I said and he’s like, Is Kyle with you? and I’m like Noo, I’m on my own and he’s like, Suuuure, and I’m like, I’m on my ooown, and he’s like, I’m going, so I’m like, Fine.”

Slurp slurp slurp.

My fingers itched to hit the STOP button again, but all immediate exits were blocked by old geezers with satellite dish ears. I scratched at the vinyl seat and tried to ignore the din. Instead I focused on the man in front, admiring the way he’d artfully arranged his remaining hairs in a spiral around his spotty red scalp.

Slurp slurp.

I was brooding over the realisation that I’d have been home twenty minutes ago if I’d stayed on the first bus, when the bell rang. The scrawny Casanova dragged his girl down the aisle.

“Let’s go babe. I’m bursting on a piss.”